#TBT: The legendary series of Christian Dior
The fashion label Dior has been shining particularly bright for several seasons. In particular young fashion interests speak of nothing else than what Kim Jones plans to do next with the men's collection. Collaboration announcements with street- and sportswear brands, such as Nike and Stüssy make everyone's hearts bloom. But let's take a look behind the scenes today and honor Kim's predecessors.
The Christian Dior brand is one of the most famous high fashion brands worldwide. The last company value of Christian Dior S.A. was a quick 30 billion euros in early 2014. In addition to the haute couture for women Nord Dior high-prêt-à-porter clothing for women, a men's line under the name Dior men and children's collections named Baby Dior. The range includes leather goods, shoes, watches, jewellery, glasses, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics in the luxury goods segment. To the holding company Christian Dior S.A. Since 2017 it has been possible for the modes as well as Dior's the perfume division to be owned by LVMH.
In 1946 the company was founded by the french fashion designer Christian Dior (1905-1957) and his financial partner and school friend Marcel Boussac, a wealthy textile manufacturer. Dior opened their haute couture studio on the elegant Parisian Avenue Montaigne. The first fashion collection launched by Dior in February 1947 was already a huge success and was celebrated as a new look by American journalists. Dior's fashion was a departure from the fashion of the war years and was characterized by feminine and elegant designs with narrow shoulders, narrow waists, figure-hugging tops and wide, swinging skirts. Dior himself called his collection Ligne Corolle - "flower head line" and pointed out that he was influenced by the fashion style that Edward Molyneux had shown before the Second World War. As a result, the Dior company was largely responsible for Paris being able to assert itself as global fashion capital. From 1947 to 1950 Pierre Cardin worked as a tailor for Dior. The first perfume, Miss Dior, was launched in 1947 by the newly founded Christian Dior Parfums and is still a classic. The Dior boutique in New York, where Dior's luxurious ready-to-wear fashion was presented, opened in 1949. In the early 1950s, the first licenses for Dior products, such as women's stockings, were awarded to other companies. As a result, her own fur and hat studio was added.
Dior's licensing policy for cosmetics, stockings and accessories became a successful marketing strategy and found numerous imitators in the fashion industry. After Christian Dior's death in October 1957, the young Yves Saint Laurent, who joined Dior in 1955 as assistant, took over the artistic direction of the house. Saint Laurent's first collection for Dior, Ligne Trapèze, has been an overwhelming global success. The "trapeze line" freed women from the need to wasp waist and presented them in a different way, an elegant way. In 1958, Saint Laurent showed his first own collection at Dior, which decisively influenced the fashion of the time as "op art fashion". He freed the costumes one more time, this time from padding and stiffening on the waist, chest and shoulders, but without sacrificing the splendor and richness of the Dior-style costumes. However, he was released after six seasons in 1961 because Saint-Laurent's style was too avant-garde for the man with the money: Boussac. Saint Laurent founded his own fashion label a year later and successfully sued Dior for breaching a contract. His successor was the then 34-year-old designer Marc Bohan (1926), who had previously worked for Dior in London and had been employed by Boussac in 1958 as an assistant to Saint Laurent. Bohan, originally a fashion designer at Edward Molyneux and Jean Patou, remained chief designer at Dior for almost 30 years until 1989. In 1967, Philippe Guibourgé, Bohan's assistant, launched Dior's ready-to-wear fashion under the name Miss Dior, as well as children's clothing from the Baby Dior brand.
Bernard Arnault, who bought the house after a crisis, pushed ahead with the expansion of the retail business. In 1994 there were only six Dior boutiques worldwide, in 2003 there were already 144 (including shops-in-shop). The employment of the Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré for women's fashion in 1989 had already ushered in a new era at Dior, his successor John Galliano changed. The target group changed from a wealthy, older lady to young, confident woman.