#TBT Maison Martin Margiela : The Explanation
Without big words, the Belgian designer Maison Martin Margiela creates fashion with a revolutionary statement.
In 1988 Martin Margiela founded the Maison Martin Margiela brand together with the Brussels retailer Jenny Meirens as Neuf SARL.
The company made a name for itself with avant-garde, deconstructivist fashion. Margiela took apart existing cuts and put them back together in an unconventional way and in rather unusual material combinations. White cotton laundry tapes are sewn into the clothing as labels with four diagonal white stitching stitches, remain empty or simply have a circle with a number in them (a "6" for women's basics and a "10" for men's fashion). Margiela's original idea was for customers to cut out this label after purchase.
Items that should normally remain hidden on clothing, such as seams or the lining, turned outward and made them the main feature of the garment. Typical designs from the early years of Maison Martin Margiela include a "women's vest made of porcelain fragments, T-shirts made of plastic bags or a top made of used white leather gloves". Another trademark of the Margiela collections are shoes in Tabi style. In 1998 men's fashion by Margiela was presented for the first time. Since 1994 the individual Margiela fashion lines have included so-called replica models, which, according to the sewn-in label, represent a "reproduction of found garments of varying sources and periods" that is true to the original.
After completing his diploma at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1981, the Belgian Margiela was one of the city's new talents and initially worked as a stylist. From 1984 to 1987 Margiela was an assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier. In 1988 he founded his label Maison Martin Margiela together with Jenny Meirens in Paris and presented his first women's ready-to-wear collection for spring / summer 1989. In 1997 he was appointed chief designer of women's fashion at Hèrmes. He continues to look after his own label.
In 1996 Margiela installed a "Museum in a Museum" as part of the Art and Fashion Biennale in Florence.