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Trendwatch: what to steal next? - Rachel Green Mature Minimalism

February 12, 2020 10:16

The “Normcore” trend which became the against movement to the extreme sportsbrand 90s revival six years ago, was the beginning of the commercial comeback of various wardrobe essentials such as stone washed high waist jeans and white t-shirts. The colour beige came back in various shades and over the years more minimalistic trends of the past popped up. We had the mum pumps,  mules, square toe booties, oversize trenchcoats, pant suit sets and cute little cardigan tops. The best thing about all this was, that we didn’t have to buy all new, because we could steal many trending pieces from our mother’s closets. So what to steal next?

Last year, Ralph Lauren launched a capsule collection in cooperation with Warner Bros. Consumer Products simply named “Rachel” to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the sitcom “Friends” and Bella Hadid’s looks for Alyx Menswear at Paris Fashion Week looked like a clash between Monica Geller’s practical Hairstyle and her sitcom brother’s classic suit-shirt-tie-combinations. I guess we’re not over the hype, yet. It’s just recently coming to the mainstream shops. And this season we also steal from our father’s closets! 

To get the slight changes in our fits right upcoming season, we just need to add a few pieces and combine a little differently. If you’re hunting for vintage treasures, keep an eye on the following brands:

  1. Costume National
  2. Plein Sud
  3. Roberto Cavalli
  4. Paco Rabanne
  5. Jil Sander
  6. Helmut Lang

Those brands back in the 90s and early 2000s designed wonderful classic minimalist clothing including nappa blazer jackets, linen apparel, downtoned patchwork, earthtones, different shades of white, denim, organza and mesh pieces, silk basics, “mum accessories” and that’s the kind of look spring fashion as shown at Paris Fashion Week refers to. The whole 90s game is becoming more calm, more mature, more neutral and unisex. To get an idea of what the current twist looks like, check out the latest collections of 1017 Alyx 9sm and Jaquemus!

Paco Rabanne and Roberto Cavalli 90s runway shows are another major inspiration for what to steal or keep an eye on. 

The main focus is good quality, natural colors and materials with a natural flowiness, feminine silhouettes in very reduced and clear designs and shapes, glossy, decent shimmer effects and small details like lacings or asymmetric cuts. The outfits are layered, combinations not too complicated. The monochrome trend and “power dressing” stay. 

Essential key pieces to (still) combine right now are:

  1. oxblood red leather coat
  2. XL basic claw hair clip
  3. soft turtleneck sweaters in creme, black, camel, baby blue, butter yellow
  4. a straight cut black men‘s leather jacket
  5. flared leather pants

In other words: we take last season‘s “Rachel Green“ wardrobe and add just a few more “Buffy the vampire slayer” pieces to it. We‘re good to go for spring.

No items found.

The employees in the boutiques, in the design studio and in the backstage area at fashion shows wear white lab coats, as was common in the ateliers of the great couturiers, e.g. Christian Dior, and is still common today. The fashion shows for the high-priced fashion sometimes took place in the context of the Paris Prêt-à-porter shows in unconventional locations, up to shabby surroundings (construction site, metro station, dining room of the Salvation Army etc.). The boutiques are kept in plain white and gray. Margiela originally selected unspectacular locations such as a residential area in Tokyo and did not publish the addresses of the boutiques in order to require the customer to make an effort to find the store at all. The first Margiela store opened in Tokyo in 2000 and the first European boutique was inaugurated in Brussels in 2002. In 2008, a boutique opened in a basement on the edge of Munich's Maximilianstrasse. This was followed by participation in numerous exhibitions, including "Radical Fashion", which was shown in 2001 at the V&A Museum in London. In 2010 there were 36 own stores worldwide.  In 2015 there were over 50 stores worldwide, including boutiques, that only carry the MM6 collection.

The company followed a very restrictive communication policy. The designer can neither be photographed nor interviewed. Only his creations should speak for themselves and the designs should be perceived as the overall performance of the team. That's why the team always shows up in white doctor's coats after the fashion shows - nobody should stand out.

By recycling old fashion, separating, recoloring, reversing seams and zippers, both the origin and the artificial of the art of tailoring are shown. Margiela puts together what doesn't belong together: by hand, jeans turn into skirts, old army socks become pullovers. Baptized by the press as deconstructivism, this current is defined by an abrupt collision of different materials, which at first glance appear inharmonic in the sense of conventional viewing habits. Margiela herself rejects the term "deconstructivism". He resurrected clothes in a new form, he told ELLE in 1991.

Margiela was the unofficial 7th member of "Antwerp 6", a generation of fashion designers who all completed their training at the Royal Academy of Arts between 1980-1981 and shaped the "style of the Belgians". However, it does not belong to the actual group, but it became known in a similar period.

The Japanese "Street Magazine" dedicated two special editions to "Maison Martin Margiela", which were published in book form in 1999. Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga) is a big fan of Maison Martin Margiela.

In July 2014, fashion critic Suzy Menkes exposed Matthieu Blazy via Instagram as Head of Design, after which he deleted his Instagram account and changed his profile in a career network. He left the company on October 1, 2014.

To this day, Margiela pieces, especially in the fashion industry and all fashion lovers, belong to the sanctuaries in every repertoire and archive. Getting vintage pieces from other designers may be possible, but Maison Martin Marginal Archives are a real hunt and that says it all about this art.