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Marine Serre Defines The New Luxury With Upcycled Materials

November 1, 2019 15:49

Marine serre was the first show that kicked off the second day of Paris Fashion Week SS20 Womens. On the show day, the rain was heavily pouring, and it seemed as if the weather was purposely designed for the show.

The story behind the presentation addresses the apocalypse, the environmental conditions caused by humans, and the survivors. This also explains the title "Marée Noire", which means "black tide".

The first looks of the show are reminiscent of the funeral gloom, the recycled material of the clothes, the water bottles, dead shells as earrings, recovered hardware, all these details are the constant reminders of climate change that leads to the hypothesis that predicts the future of the earth we are heading for is devastating. Sustainability and environmental awareness are the important issues for the designer. Since French President Emmanuel Macron announced the "fashion pact" to make the fashion industry more sustainable. Afterwards, 150 brands have registered, including Marine Serre, who has poured the start of the designer spirit into the designs with this collection.

During the show, Marine showed all different kinds of silhouettes, such as nice tailoring suits, diving like leather bodysuit, industrial worker wear, sophisticated dresses and a lot of diversity in casting, which should represents different characters in the aftermath the apocalypse.

For Marine Serre, this collection is not about showcasing how glamours the fashion Industry can be, it is about what we can utilize and make use of what we have. She used fabrics such as frotée,which reminds of used towels to create elegant dresses.The brand is using up to 50% of upcycled material for the clothing, which provides us an exceptional unique perspective to look at the fashion industry, and the new meaning of luxury with the consideration of the environment.

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The employees in the boutiques, in the design studio and in the backstage area at fashion shows wear white lab coats, as was common in the ateliers of the great couturiers, e.g. Christian Dior, and is still common today. The fashion shows for the high-priced fashion sometimes took place in the context of the Paris Prêt-à-porter shows in unconventional locations, up to shabby surroundings (construction site, metro station, dining room of the Salvation Army etc.). The boutiques are kept in plain white and gray. Margiela originally selected unspectacular locations such as a residential area in Tokyo and did not publish the addresses of the boutiques in order to require the customer to make an effort to find the store at all. The first Margiela store opened in Tokyo in 2000 and the first European boutique was inaugurated in Brussels in 2002. In 2008, a boutique opened in a basement on the edge of Munich's Maximilianstrasse. This was followed by participation in numerous exhibitions, including "Radical Fashion", which was shown in 2001 at the V&A Museum in London. In 2010 there were 36 own stores worldwide.  In 2015 there were over 50 stores worldwide, including boutiques, that only carry the MM6 collection.

The company followed a very restrictive communication policy. The designer can neither be photographed nor interviewed. Only his creations should speak for themselves and the designs should be perceived as the overall performance of the team. That's why the team always shows up in white doctor's coats after the fashion shows - nobody should stand out.

By recycling old fashion, separating, recoloring, reversing seams and zippers, both the origin and the artificial of the art of tailoring are shown. Margiela puts together what doesn't belong together: by hand, jeans turn into skirts, old army socks become pullovers. Baptized by the press as deconstructivism, this current is defined by an abrupt collision of different materials, which at first glance appear inharmonic in the sense of conventional viewing habits. Margiela herself rejects the term "deconstructivism". He resurrected clothes in a new form, he told ELLE in 1991.

Margiela was the unofficial 7th member of "Antwerp 6", a generation of fashion designers who all completed their training at the Royal Academy of Arts between 1980-1981 and shaped the "style of the Belgians". However, it does not belong to the actual group, but it became known in a similar period.

The Japanese "Street Magazine" dedicated two special editions to "Maison Martin Margiela", which were published in book form in 1999. Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga) is a big fan of Maison Martin Margiela.

In July 2014, fashion critic Suzy Menkes exposed Matthieu Blazy via Instagram as Head of Design, after which he deleted his Instagram account and changed his profile in a career network. He left the company on October 1, 2014.

To this day, Margiela pieces, especially in the fashion industry and all fashion lovers, belong to the sanctuaries in every repertoire and archive. Getting vintage pieces from other designers may be possible, but Maison Martin Marginal Archives are a real hunt and that says it all about this art.