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Louis Vuitton - Pre Fall 2020 - by Nicolas Ghesquiére

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February 10, 2020 10:49

For Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall collection, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière cast the House’s muses as protagonists in imaginary horror and sci-fi novels. The look book tells its own stories, and they’re pretty scary... 


“Fashion is a novel,” the brand says in the look-book notes. And although the fake covers and posters draw inspiration from the ’70s and ’80s, resulting in satisfyingly retro and lofi looks,  the fashion is a mash-up of past, present, and even future styles. It makes sense that the brand would go in this retro creative direction since Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director for menswear, claimed that the future of fashion means “expressing your knowledge and personal style with vintage”.

According to Ghesquière the book and movie concepts came first and the clothes second. “William Peter Blatty, who wrote The Exorcist, gave us the rights to print the cover of the book. It started there,” he explained. “It’s such a great symbol for me to use a fiction and incorporate it into an outfit. I thought, what’s the reverse? To use the fiction as the illustration of the fashion. It’s a kind of a mirror effect in this action of representing them all in these different characters.” And so as a result of that you can now see artists and actors like Léa Seydoux in one of the collection’s T-shirts (with the original cover from William Peter Blatty’s 1971 novel The Exorcist) paired with a sequined cocktail dress, thick chains, and an LV-logo-covered handbag in front of a backdrop that looks like an old cover of a sci-fi/horror novel.

Additionally, you can see the likes of Sophie Turner with a coat and futuristic looking moon boots, Angelica Ross in a ’50s schoolgirl look, and Jaden Smith in a colorful pattern clash fit. Which one of these sci-fi/horror novels would you want to read?

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The employees in the boutiques, in the design studio and in the backstage area at fashion shows wear white lab coats, as was common in the ateliers of the great couturiers, e.g. Christian Dior, and is still common today. The fashion shows for the high-priced fashion sometimes took place in the context of the Paris Prêt-à-porter shows in unconventional locations, up to shabby surroundings (construction site, metro station, dining room of the Salvation Army etc.). The boutiques are kept in plain white and gray. Margiela originally selected unspectacular locations such as a residential area in Tokyo and did not publish the addresses of the boutiques in order to require the customer to make an effort to find the store at all. The first Margiela store opened in Tokyo in 2000 and the first European boutique was inaugurated in Brussels in 2002. In 2008, a boutique opened in a basement on the edge of Munich's Maximilianstrasse. This was followed by participation in numerous exhibitions, including "Radical Fashion", which was shown in 2001 at the V&A Museum in London. In 2010 there were 36 own stores worldwide.  In 2015 there were over 50 stores worldwide, including boutiques, that only carry the MM6 collection.

The company followed a very restrictive communication policy. The designer can neither be photographed nor interviewed. Only his creations should speak for themselves and the designs should be perceived as the overall performance of the team. That's why the team always shows up in white doctor's coats after the fashion shows - nobody should stand out.

By recycling old fashion, separating, recoloring, reversing seams and zippers, both the origin and the artificial of the art of tailoring are shown. Margiela puts together what doesn't belong together: by hand, jeans turn into skirts, old army socks become pullovers. Baptized by the press as deconstructivism, this current is defined by an abrupt collision of different materials, which at first glance appear inharmonic in the sense of conventional viewing habits. Margiela herself rejects the term "deconstructivism". He resurrected clothes in a new form, he told ELLE in 1991.

Margiela was the unofficial 7th member of "Antwerp 6", a generation of fashion designers who all completed their training at the Royal Academy of Arts between 1980-1981 and shaped the "style of the Belgians". However, it does not belong to the actual group, but it became known in a similar period.

The Japanese "Street Magazine" dedicated two special editions to "Maison Martin Margiela", which were published in book form in 1999. Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga) is a big fan of Maison Martin Margiela.

In July 2014, fashion critic Suzy Menkes exposed Matthieu Blazy via Instagram as Head of Design, after which he deleted his Instagram account and changed his profile in a career network. He left the company on October 1, 2014.

To this day, Margiela pieces, especially in the fashion industry and all fashion lovers, belong to the sanctuaries in every repertoire and archive. Getting vintage pieces from other designers may be possible, but Maison Martin Marginal Archives are a real hunt and that says it all about this art.

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