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From fringe groups and subcultures: How Fred Perry became a cult

November 12, 2019 14:44

The tennis label Fred Perry is a brand that has a number of subcultures and of course,unconsciously. Before the Internet brands had to come up with other strategies,to bring their clothes to their buyers. Nowadays there are so-called "influencers" or "fire Ambassador " who do that for a living. Fred Perry's fashion career started in 1947 when his tennis career came to an end. He equipped former war veterans who played Wimbledon, with simple, white polos that as Identification feature were provided with the laurel wreath. The founder of the british brand owes his success not only his talent in tennis or that he ex-military soldiers with his polo shirts endowed; the success was largely due to the mods. Who recognized the potential of the label, without uploading outfit pictures on the net. Even if the people who lived in the 50s, were far from the privilege of enjoying what the Internet calls itself. Nonetheless, the modernists would have us in the barrel with their fit pics. But who are these said "Moderinsts" about which I write my fingers sore. And how they carried passively the entire weight of a brand that might even be extinct without their help? The "modernists", or simply the "mods", is a youth movement in the late 50s took shape. They were the well-dressed youth and they had a taste for reggae, Ska, idyllic bars, and stylish menswear. They gladly shopped their shirts and suits in the local men's fashion houses in London. There was not even the feel of a Fred Perry shirt. The laurel wreath brand slipped unintentionally into this subculture. The mods were the lifeboat for Fred Perry, because of the business wich was very slow during that time. Although Fred Perry celebrated great success in tennis; he won the Wimbledon tournament, in Table Tennis and he was also unchallenged and won the Table tennis world championship three times as a result.He also won the Australian, French and US Open. Too bad that a person's happiness is not reflected on everyone. The mods had literally to struggle with their own problems. At the time of the up-and-coming mods, there was one more other fringe group that did not make life easy for them. The modernists were the Rockers like a thorn in the eye. They made fun of their complete lifestyle; what about that her dressy way of life but why and with her ridiculous scooters the streets England unsure. The rockers were very masculine, the mods just the opposite, since they just for the classic, filigree stood.

Also, that the mods stung in the bars of the rival rockers, was like a hit for the rockers in the face. Thus, a wedge was formed between the two groups. It went so far that she became palpable and beat each other. The best example of this happened in 1964 when the Mods and rockers regularly called for action in summer on the South Coast of England. No grain of sand was spared. There were innocent civilians in the fighting of the entangled with competing gangs who just wanted to have a nice time without getting into various to be involved in fistfights. Countless of these teenagers were for these misdeeds locked up. For the tabloids was the found food. They have the mods as state enemies of England classified. Everything the Mods stood for; the elegance, the fine dress style, the good music and the Un-British lifestyle - all this has been nullified. But the media is there for that to cause confusion.Because the attention was primarily the mods, and they everywhere in the former English media were represented, the mod movement split. (To a commercial way) Lifestyle magazines began offering fashion tips for the style of the mods and their looks everywhere to present television. Part of the mods went back to their DNA - the simple one Working class. They were inspired by the similarly adjusted immigrants from the Caribbean and So came on whole new music tastes. Reggae and Ska were at the top of the list. The Rude boys from Jamaica were also a big influence for the mods, so now they too preferred to cut her hair short. Now a new one has emerged from the Modernists Youth movement that called itself "Skinhead". The skins remained true to their roots and kept the taste for good clothes.

Her uniform looked like this: Harrington Jackets, Fred Perry Shirts, Levi's 501 jeans and classic Doc Martens boots that should be familiar to everyone. In the 70s, some skinheads deviated from the right path and joined right wing radicals Organizations like the National Front. This led to German neo-Nazis in the 80s, the Skinheads' dress code discovered themselves and drew their inspiration from it. Why the old Known look of skins is on everyone's lips as a Nazi dress code is stamped. It is not the first one Sometimes, the right-wing extremists use the traditions and looks of other cultures, and ultimately as her "own" title. Each of us has a classic skinhead in a Harrington jacket, Levi's 501 and Doc Martens, but always had the courage to ask the person why they are from the dress style What does it look like? I do not think so. Since I'm so beautiful, from mods to skinheads I have changed my mind slightly, so I hope that I have some light into the dark and, first of all, to question something before putting it into one Drawer pushes.

Creedits: Photos: Daniel Mayer / Text: Moubsen / Styling: Moubsen / Models: Moubsen & Ferdi / Creative

Direction: Moubsen & Daniel Mayer

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The employees in the boutiques, in the design studio and in the backstage area at fashion shows wear white lab coats, as was common in the ateliers of the great couturiers, e.g. Christian Dior, and is still common today. The fashion shows for the high-priced fashion sometimes took place in the context of the Paris Prêt-à-porter shows in unconventional locations, up to shabby surroundings (construction site, metro station, dining room of the Salvation Army etc.). The boutiques are kept in plain white and gray. Margiela originally selected unspectacular locations such as a residential area in Tokyo and did not publish the addresses of the boutiques in order to require the customer to make an effort to find the store at all. The first Margiela store opened in Tokyo in 2000 and the first European boutique was inaugurated in Brussels in 2002. In 2008, a boutique opened in a basement on the edge of Munich's Maximilianstrasse. This was followed by participation in numerous exhibitions, including "Radical Fashion", which was shown in 2001 at the V&A Museum in London. In 2010 there were 36 own stores worldwide.  In 2015 there were over 50 stores worldwide, including boutiques, that only carry the MM6 collection.

The company followed a very restrictive communication policy. The designer can neither be photographed nor interviewed. Only his creations should speak for themselves and the designs should be perceived as the overall performance of the team. That's why the team always shows up in white doctor's coats after the fashion shows - nobody should stand out.

By recycling old fashion, separating, recoloring, reversing seams and zippers, both the origin and the artificial of the art of tailoring are shown. Margiela puts together what doesn't belong together: by hand, jeans turn into skirts, old army socks become pullovers. Baptized by the press as deconstructivism, this current is defined by an abrupt collision of different materials, which at first glance appear inharmonic in the sense of conventional viewing habits. Margiela herself rejects the term "deconstructivism". He resurrected clothes in a new form, he told ELLE in 1991.

Margiela was the unofficial 7th member of "Antwerp 6", a generation of fashion designers who all completed their training at the Royal Academy of Arts between 1980-1981 and shaped the "style of the Belgians". However, it does not belong to the actual group, but it became known in a similar period.

The Japanese "Street Magazine" dedicated two special editions to "Maison Martin Margiela", which were published in book form in 1999. Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga) is a big fan of Maison Martin Margiela.

In July 2014, fashion critic Suzy Menkes exposed Matthieu Blazy via Instagram as Head of Design, after which he deleted his Instagram account and changed his profile in a career network. He left the company on October 1, 2014.

To this day, Margiela pieces, especially in the fashion industry and all fashion lovers, belong to the sanctuaries in every repertoire and archive. Getting vintage pieces from other designers may be possible, but Maison Martin Marginal Archives are a real hunt and that says it all about this art.