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CREATING MY OWN VERSION - Lisa Banholzer

Editorial
November 19, 2019 14:22

Berlin makes me feel that I live in a great moment in time to break and redefine social norms. It is our generation which is questioning loudly the status quo and demanding the freedom to create our own versions of life and identity. Pregnancy and motherhood are definitely loaded with stereotypes and unwritten rules of behaviour and style. I wanted to make sure that, even while my body is changing, I don’t fall for any existing preggo style cliché, (that I can’t really identify with anyways) but to stay myself while evolving. The challenge to create my own version out if it without having a lot of role models or moods to aspire towards gave me the feeling of freedom and turned out to be exciting and actually really fun. Yes, pregnancy does bring out a soft, sensual and super female side of my personality, but also I feel stronger, sexier and more fierce than ever. Baggy-pants and boyish streetwear elements mixed with crop tops, tight stretch dresses or heels express this ultra female, boss attitude for me. There is somehow still a prevailing misogynistic pressure to curtain these new curves and to hide in a stainless, pure innocence, instead of embracing and accentuating these shapes and allowing pregnant women to still be sexual beings. It is powerful and I guess for some even scary to see a woman aware of her own strenght. I am thankful for the people and friends around me who help me express all of the diversity of my personality and style and give me the confidence to surprise myself.

Lisa wearing Agent Provocateur and Marcel von Berlin
Scarf: LOEWE Bottoms: Craig Green
Dress: Vintage
Bottoms: Marcel von Berlin Top: Agent Provocateur
Dress : Ganni Top: Maison Margiela
Bottoms: Dior Homme Shirt: Balenciaga
Shirt: Rick Owens Bra: Marni Bottoms: Loewe
Accs: Versace Shoes: Jimmy Choo

Photos by : Ruben Jacob Fees

Styling : Neslihan Degerli

Make-Up: Kristin Roes

Video: Jen Krause

Styling Assistant: Luisa Beinhold

Prouction Assistant: Celine Nguyen

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The employees in the boutiques, in the design studio and in the backstage area at fashion shows wear white lab coats, as was common in the ateliers of the great couturiers, e.g. Christian Dior, and is still common today. The fashion shows for the high-priced fashion sometimes took place in the context of the Paris Prêt-à-porter shows in unconventional locations, up to shabby surroundings (construction site, metro station, dining room of the Salvation Army etc.). The boutiques are kept in plain white and gray. Margiela originally selected unspectacular locations such as a residential area in Tokyo and did not publish the addresses of the boutiques in order to require the customer to make an effort to find the store at all. The first Margiela store opened in Tokyo in 2000 and the first European boutique was inaugurated in Brussels in 2002. In 2008, a boutique opened in a basement on the edge of Munich's Maximilianstrasse. This was followed by participation in numerous exhibitions, including "Radical Fashion", which was shown in 2001 at the V&A Museum in London. In 2010 there were 36 own stores worldwide.  In 2015 there were over 50 stores worldwide, including boutiques, that only carry the MM6 collection.

The company followed a very restrictive communication policy. The designer can neither be photographed nor interviewed. Only his creations should speak for themselves and the designs should be perceived as the overall performance of the team. That's why the team always shows up in white doctor's coats after the fashion shows - nobody should stand out.

By recycling old fashion, separating, recoloring, reversing seams and zippers, both the origin and the artificial of the art of tailoring are shown. Margiela puts together what doesn't belong together: by hand, jeans turn into skirts, old army socks become pullovers. Baptized by the press as deconstructivism, this current is defined by an abrupt collision of different materials, which at first glance appear inharmonic in the sense of conventional viewing habits. Margiela herself rejects the term "deconstructivism". He resurrected clothes in a new form, he told ELLE in 1991.

Margiela was the unofficial 7th member of "Antwerp 6", a generation of fashion designers who all completed their training at the Royal Academy of Arts between 1980-1981 and shaped the "style of the Belgians". However, it does not belong to the actual group, but it became known in a similar period.

The Japanese "Street Magazine" dedicated two special editions to "Maison Martin Margiela", which were published in book form in 1999. Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga) is a big fan of Maison Martin Margiela.

In July 2014, fashion critic Suzy Menkes exposed Matthieu Blazy via Instagram as Head of Design, after which he deleted his Instagram account and changed his profile in a career network. He left the company on October 1, 2014.

To this day, Margiela pieces, especially in the fashion industry and all fashion lovers, belong to the sanctuaries in every repertoire and archive. Getting vintage pieces from other designers may be possible, but Maison Martin Marginal Archives are a real hunt and that says it all about this art.

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